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When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.